Description

Wave amplitude, period and direction, together with wave spectral data can be measured using a variety of instruments. Of particular interest is the bottom-mounted ADCP, which combines with its ability to measure currents in 3D the possibility of measuring wave information.

ADCPs are useful for shallower waters; for deeper waters either an ADCP on mid-column mooring, or a traditional Waverider buoy can be used. These deeper water systems are being supplanted by Oceanographic measurements carried out from low-orbit satellites, using radar backscatter techniques.

Waves are the major factor determining the geometry and composition of beaches and significantly influence the planning and design of harbours, coastal structures and other coastal works.